In the Footsteps of Lewis & Clark
Columbia and Snake River Journey
Day 1: The Oregon Zoo
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This is the first of a series of entries in which I'll write about our trip in which we visited Portland and followed the Lewis and Clark Trail on the Columbia and Snake Rivers.
We had never been to the Pacific Northwest before, so we decided to take a few days to visit Portland before embarking on our adventure to follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark through the area. We stayed at the Hotel Mallory, a nice older hotel that is ideally located near downtown and the light rail and bus stops. As with many older hotels, the rooms are quite small (i.e., one person has to lie on the bed if the other person wants to move around the room). But the room was attractive and the bed was very comfortable, with a cuddly pillow-top mattress. The only thing that I didn't cotton to at the Mallory was the dining room, which we tried once for breakfast. The food was tasty but ordinary and very overpriced for what you got.
We spent the first day at the Oregon Zoo, which turned out to be the best zoo I've ever seen with the possible exception of the National Zoo in Washington, D.C. What sets this zoo apart is the wonderful enclosures. I knew we were in for something special right away when we walked in and were able to kneel near a small window and watch two beautiful leopards just inches away through thick glass.
One of the highlights came early in the day. At Lorikeet Landing, you can buy a small cup of nectar and enter an enclosure full of beautiful multi-colored parrots who fly to you to feed from the cup. They are curious and playful, landing on your arms and head and gently checking out your jewelry, hair, and glasses. It's hilarious!
The Oregon Zoo showcases an incredible variety of animals in many habitats and is really an all-day affair. The habitat-themed exhibits are especially interesting, such as the Alaskan tundra exhibit (with a great grizzly bear), and separate exhibits of both an Amazon and an African rainforest. Being from Austin, we were especially interested to see the gigantic fruit bats, which dwarfed the little Mexican free-tailed bats we have around here. Other memorable exhibits included the elephants (the Oregon Zoo is noted for its captive breeding program), the bald eagle habitat, and aquatic exhibits of beavers and sea otters. But the highlight of the afternoon was the chance to observe the polar bears. The viewing from ground level was fun, but we were blown away by the aquatic view of an enormous swimming bear in his pool. Just inches away, this magnificent creature moved his huge bulk through the water with grace and ease. What a privilege it was to see him this way.
We also had fun watching all the moms visiting the zoo with their screaming kids. A lot of the children were too small to enjoy the zoo. It was clear that, like us, the moms were there to get out of their usual routines and do something fun for themselves.
For dinner tonight we hiked up to the Northwest neighborhood and had a really yummy dinner at a Thai restaurant called Typhoon. I loved my pad thai. Coconut ice cream for dessert!
Day 2: Downtown Portland and the Oregon Historical Society
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Our second day in Portland. Today was my 40th birthday! Mary gave me a small present: a great first-day cover with the William Clark stamp and the following quote from him about seeing the Pacific Ocean for the first time:
I behold the grandest and most pleasing prospect which my eyes ever surveyed.
What an appropriate message as we continue our great vacation!
For breakfast, we found a great little place near the hotel called the Sunshine Cafe. The staff was Asian but did biscuits and gravy to perfection! After a yummy meal we headed off to explore downtown Portland.
We started in Pioneer Square, then headed north to take a look at some of Portland's ornate historic buildings. Portland has been fortunate in preserving many of these and would make a wonderful place to make a film noir movie. Among the most interesting buildings we saw were the Dekum Building (1892), the New Market Theater (1875), and the Bishop's House (1879), which in its day has housed a rectory, a headquarters for a Chinese tong, and a speakeasy. It's near the old police headquarters, and evidently wires ran between the two buildings. Legend has it that it's unclear who was bugging whom. Today it is home to a Middle Eastern restaurant.
We spent some time in the Old Town neighborhood admiring Ankeny Square, which was undergoing a major renovation. It looks like there are some neat stores and some fun eateries here. We also saw all kinds of people, from yuppies to hippies to disreputable types. One thing that we both noticed during our stay in Portland was the number of people wandering around who were obviously high on something. By casual observation it appeared that this city is not much for enforcing public intoxication laws.
Portland is also a place of tremendous civic willpower. We walked along the beautiful Waterfront Park, which had been reclaimed from the interstate highway some years ago. This is a great place to run or relax. We were interested to see the mast of the battleship Oregon, a hero ship of the Spanish-American War, and the enormous and impressive Salmon Street Fountain. Learned that Waterfront Park was the scene of a tremendous volunteer effort in 1996, when thousands of ordinary citizens pitched in to save the city from flooding. It was hard not to contrast this with the terrible scene of helplessness that recently unfolded in New Orleans.
We took our tired feet to the Park district and the main event of the day, the Oregon Historical Society. It's great that more and more states have made the effort to create museums where citizens and visitors can go learn about the history of the place. We saw a very interesting temporary exhibit entitled "A Fair to Remember," which recreated the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland. It was fun to learn how the Expedition was commemorated 100 years ago and how the fair really put Portland on the map. I decided that of all the attractions, I would especially liked to have seen the flaming fireworks portrait of Meriwether Lewis.
The permanent exhibit, "Oregon My Oregon," detailed the state's history from Indian times through early explorers, missionaries, Oregon Trail pioneers, and early industries such as mining and logging. This exhibit is very well-done, providing you with a substantive look at many facets of the state's history without being overwhelming.
Had a great lunch at a burrito place called Maya's Taqueria, then finished up at the museum by looking at an art exhibit about Portland and a very interesting exhibit about the battleship Oregon.
Dinner was a great birthday treat at Jake's Famous Crawfish, a very busy and lively restaurant. I got stuffed catfish and Mary got crab cakes. Finished it off with a fabulous chocolate truffle cake!
Day 3: International Rose Test Garden, Japanese Garden, and Powell's Books
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Liz at the International Rose Test Garden |
The Zen Garden, part of the Japanese Garden in Portland |
Our third day in Portland. This morning we breakfasted on cranberry strudel and latte at a bakery near the Mallory, then got the bus back to Washington Park to visit its famous gardens. The bus stop let us off at the outskirts of the park, where we hiked a short but steep trail through a cool and beautiful forest of tall trees, moss, and ferns.
The International Rose Test Garden is a visual spectacle that is hard to describe in words. I can't imagine what it's like earlier in the season. Even this late in the year, we were able to feast our eyes on hundreds of rose bushes of various breeds and colors. Huge classic roses shared space with tiny miniature varieties. While some of the flowers were fading, others were still blooming in glorious perfection. The garden overlooks a great view of the city.
Next, we took another short but steep walk to the Japanese Garden. This is a large and amazing landscape arranged according to Japanese principles to convey a mood of peace, harmony, and reflection. Instead of flowers, the Japanese garden with rocks, moss, and statuary, placed among footpaths that wander through trees and water features such as ponds and waterfalls. The result is a timeless and cathedral-like setting where you can walk or just sit and enjoy.
Some of the more unusual features of the garden are a large Zen garden and a hall where some beautiful Japanese quilts were on display, including one that depicted two rabbits dancing in the moon. The story that accompanied this design was very moving. A Japanese-American man recalled that when he and his family were forced to go to the internment camps during World War II, he was compelled to give up his pet bunny. He could not find anyone who would agree to take the bunny, so he had to let the bunny go. Later, he saw the bunny dancing in the moon.
These two gardens provided us with a wonderful way to spend the morning. Back at the Rose Garden, we feasted on some enormous hot dogs from a snack cart and enjoyed the beautiful weather. On the way back to the bus, we took a detour and saw Washington Park's abstract Lewis and Clark monument and a statue of Sacagawea and Pomp.
In the afternoon, we paid the obligatory visit to Powell's Books. I was excited about going here, but I actually found it quite overwhelming. It was hard to know how to even begin to tackle the 300,000 book inventory. I think that to truly take advantage of what Powell's had to offer, you would need to live in Portland so you could pay repeat visits. I did manage to buy a book before leaving the store with sensory overload.
Dinner tonight was in an Old Town restaurant called Huber's, a beautiful old-fashioned place furnished in cherry paneling. Mary got the house speciality, turkey pie, and I got great razor clams.
Day 4: Chinese Classical Garden and the Sea Lion
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Liz at the Chinese Classical Garden |
Mary at the Portland Marina; |
Began our last day in Portland with a nice pancake breakfast at the Sunshine Cafe. We goofed around the mall near Pioneer Square for a while and spent some time browsing (and buying) in a neat rock and fossil store. Then we went back to the Mallory and packed up. It's almost time to begin our river journey in the wake of Lewis and Clark.
We decided to take this portion of our trip with a tour company called Lindblad Expeditions. Lindblad runs adventure tours on small cruise ships to a number of destinations around the world, including the Columbia River. After doing some research into our options for seeing this part of the Lewis and Clark trail, we decided we could cover the most ground (and water) and get to see and do the most fun things in the time we had by joining up with their river voyage into Lewis & Clark country. This was something new for us, as neither of us had ever been on any type of cruise before.
We took a cab over to the Riverplace Hotel, where we met up with the Lindblad folks and transferred our bags to them. It was exciting to see our ship, the Sea Lion, moored at the dock there. It was still several hours until our departure, so we decided to take the streetcar over to Chinatown for lunch. It turned out that there isn't much of a happening scene in Portland's Chinatown. In fact, it seemed pretty dead--not so much a work in progress as a work completed. Perhaps it's waiting for something new to begin. We did find an enjoyable place for lunch called the House of Louie.
After lunch, we had the pleasure of discovering that something new had begun in Chinatown. The Chinese Classical Garden, just opened in 1999, is a truly beautiful urban oasis. Stone paths meander through various garden "rooms," arranged with plantings, pagodas, and windows and stonework that frame each view, each in their own different and pleasing way. The centerpiece of the garden is a big lilypond with very small koi. It was fun to think about coming back in a few years and seeing how they had grown. Unlike the Japanese Garden, the Chinese Garden had few places to stop, sit, and mediate. Instead, a walking contemplation seemed to be the object. I don't know much about Asian gardening, but I did find an interesting article that explains some of the other differences between the two styles.
Back at the Riverplace, we watched some geese playing in the waterfront park. Then it was time to board the Sea Lion!
Our cabin was small but pleasant, with two little beds, very efficient storage space, and a tiny shower/potty area. Shortly after boarding, we had a champagne reception and met the crew and some of the other guests (about 60 people). We were younger than most of our fellow guests. We're fortunate in having the time and means to travel now, instead of having to wait for years as many people must do. For the most part, we found the other guests to be active, interesting people with many different backgrounds and life experiences.
Then the Sea Lion sailed away from Portland and the only life we had ever known. Out on deck in our rain gear, we got to see first-hand why Portland is known as the City of Bridges. Near the hotel, we went under a vertical lift bridge, meaning that traffic on the bridge had to be stopped and a portion of the bridge raised for the ship to pass under. It was fun to see the bridges in their various styles, the passing city, and the industrial drydocks. Learned that Portland built most of the Liberty ships of World War II, using power generated by the Columbia River dams.
The food on the ship is excellent, especially the breads and the soups. Tonight we had a good salmon dinner, with chocolate bread pudding for dessert. We especially enjoyed meeting Tom Mullen, our historian-guide for this cruise. Tom is the author of Rivers of Change, an exploration of the rivers of Lewis & Clark and how they have changed since the Expedition.
Day 5 : Locking in and Hat Rock
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The Sea Lion in the lock at John Day Dam |
A good beginning day to our tour. One constant to any trip to the West is that somewhere along the line, you have to cover a lot of miles. Today was mostly a travel day. In fact, one reason we chose this Lindblad tour was the ability to travel while we're asleep, letting us see more of the country than we could cover on our own in the same time. Lewis and Clark should have been so lucky.
The Columbia River is in many senses not a river any longer, but a series of lakes confined between hydroelectric dams. To harness the energy of the river, the dams were built at the points with the most famous whirlpools and rapids that Lewis and Clark shot through in their canoes and that plagued generations of pioneers and rivermen. These spectacular but dangerous features are now entirely drowned. The result is a river that is much slower and more placid than the one L&C encountered in 1805-06. The dams include fish ladders for the endangered salmon to continue to try to make their runs. It turns out that while the dams make things difficult for the salmon, it was not the dams but grossly wasteful overfishing in the 19th and early 20th century that almost entirely eradicated them, long before the dams were ever built.
It was imperative that the Columbia remain navigable even with the dams, so each dam includes locks. Overnight, we traveled about 100 miles up the river, passing through the locks of Bonneville Dam and The Dalles Dam. I was aware of some noise and scraping, but not much else. About the time we got up we got to experience the locks in daylight at the John Day Dam. It was very interesting to watch as the ship maneuvered into the lock and tied up to the side. Water then filled the lock, lifting us up about 100 feet to the next level of the Columbia. This process is called "locking in."
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Hat Rock |
We spent much of the morning on deck watching the amazing dry steppe hills and basalt cliffs. When most people think of Oregon and Washington, they think of the coastal rain forests. Yet huge portions are desert, seemingly devoid of much life. Once this place was home to thousands of Indians. When Lewis and Clark came here, they found a denser population of Indians than existed anywhere else in North America. Unfortunately, these people would later be victims of terrible epidemics, but some survive. We saw some Indians fishing along the banks of the river, the descendants of those who helped Lewis and Clark (or, in some cases, stole from them or poked fun at them!).
The Lindblad folks tried to keep us busy with a lecture by Tom, a gift shop in the lounge, and a safety drill. We went through McNary Dam later in the day. We were making good time so we got to stop and have some fun. We put down anchor near Hat Rock State Park, a place described by L&C. We zodiac'd over to the park and took a great hike around a huge basaltic rock formation formed by ancient lava flows. It was in this area that L&C made friends with Chief Yellepit and his Walla Walla Indians. The wildflowers and the pretty creek running through the park make this a beautiful spot to walk or just hang out.
Later, we went to a very entertaining lecture about the wildflowers of the area by the naturalist-guide for our tour, ethnobotanist Sharon Grainger. Wrapped up the day with a wine tasting party with excellent local delicacies including jellies, cheeses, and smoked salmon and oysters.
By the way, in this post I've linked several times to the pictures and stories in Lyn Topkina's great website, Lewis & Clark's Columbia River. Check out the whole site!
Day 6: Hells Canyon and Nez Perce National Historic Park
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Hells Canyon |
A huge day! We awoke on the Snake River, having passed through several more dams in the night (I didn't feel a thing). Shortly after breakfast, we arrived in Clarkston, Washington, a small industrial river port. Its twin city, Lewiston, Idaho, is visible on the other side of the river.
The big event of the day was a jet boat tour into Hells Canyon, one of the most interesting and spectacular portions of the Snake River. As our boat traveled through the shallow waters, we were surrounded by towering, craggy mountains on all sides. This area was formed by lava flows that built up the rock formations over millions of years. Although the climate was obviously different, I could see some resemblance to the volcanic cliffs of the Na Pali Coast in Kauai. We saw ospreys, blue herons, and a small family of bighorn sheep. It was a Sunday when we visited, so we also saw lots of other folks out enjoying the river.
As we traveled into the more wild portion of the canyon, the terrain and the river both grew more rugged. Crazy boulders, huge jagged cliffs, and rapids as high as Class 3 made it evident how the canyon got its name. Although Lewis and Clark did not penetrate the Snake as far as Hells Canyon, its wildness gave us a good idea of what the Snake and Columbia were like back in L&C's day, before the dams tamed the rivers.
In a testament to man's determination, we also saw the remains of a ghost town. A few foundations and the steps leading to a planned hotel were all that was left of a mining town started by some optimists about a century ago. Today Hells Canyon is one of the most isolated spots in America. Along the way, we saw a few little houses or trailers, with outhouses out back. It was hard to imagine living such an isolated life. The jet boat company, Beamer's, has the mail contract run the mail back into the canyon. It's a 95-mile trip that includes an overnight stay, and visitors are welcome to go along. Sounded like a lot of fun! As for us, we went about 55 miles into the canyon before turning back.
This is Nez Perce country, and we were able to stop and view some great petroglyphs of dancing, celebrating people. This spot has been inhabited by the Nez Perce and their ancestors for thousands of years and is one of the richest areas for ancient petroglyphs in the country. Most of these are off limits for visitors without special permission. It was interesting to learn that the Nez Perce reject the theories that American Indians emigrated to North America from Asia. They assert that while some Indians may have arrived that way, they were always here.
We got to learn more about the Nez Perce late in the day, when we checked out the visitor center at the Nez Perce National Historic Park in Spaulding, Idaho. They have an excellent museum with great artifacts of Nez Perce culture. A large portion of the collection was gathered and preserved by one of the earliest missionaries to this area just a few years after Lewis and Clark. The Nez Perce are known for their class and finery, and it was all on display here.
Wound down at day's end with a nice relaxing walk along the marina in Clarkston. Capped off the day by watching a short but fascinating movie about the Bretz floods, a series of cataclysmic events during the Ice Age that ravaged this area and carved out the land. More on this in the next trip post.
Day 7: Kayaking on Drewyer's River and Palouse Falls
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Palouse Falls |
The incredible canyon of the Palouse River |
Another big day in Lewis & Clark country. Overnight we made our way to the Palouse River, a tributary of the Snake River that was named Drewyer's River by L&C after their indispensable hunter, George Drouillard. The big event of the morning was kayaking! We Zodiac'd up the river to a weedy launching spot splendid with purple wildflowers. We claimed a two-person kayak and soon we were off paddling through a beautiful canyon.
It was amazing to be at river level, seeing this wild spot the way that L&C saw it 200 years ago. The water was calm and glassy (a result of the damming of the river). We paddled beneath amazing tall cliffs. We discovered some mud swallow nests on the cliff walls and saw a blue heron and a buck mule deer. The silence and serenity were amazing. Of course we got tired, being more scholars than athletes, but I still wish this experience could have gone on forever.
We made our way back to the launching spot at the appointed time and made a short trip back to the Sea Lion to change into dry clothes and grab our cameras. Then we Zodiac'd to shore again, this time to board a schoolbus to Palouse Falls State Park.
Palouse Falls is a beautiful cascade that thunders over a towering cliff face. Nice--but the truly amazing thing about the falls and the craggy canyons that surround it is how they were formed. In most places, these kinds of formations are created over millennia, the natural process of water acting on rock. Here, the falls stand as a very tiny remnant of epic floods (called the Bretz or Missoula floods), that roared over the land repeatedly thousands of years ago. The canyons were carved not by the slow trickle of water, but by unimaginable cataclysms that would take place over a few hours.
There's a very interesting human story to go along with the understanding of how this area was created. Harlen Bretz, the man who first discovered and wrote about the geological origins of this area, was laughed at and derided by his fellow scientists for his theory, which was unorthodox at the time. Bretz was even invited to a conference once where he presented his ideas, and then had to endure speaker after speaker rising to debunk his claims. Fortunately, Bretz lived to be 97, long enough to see his theory proved right and accepted by the scientific establishment. He said he just wished his detractors had been as long-lived. I was interested to notice when I was looking around the internet for information about Bretz that he is a favorite of creationists. I wonder what he would have thought about that?
We went on an amazing (if very dry and dusty) hike and saw great views of the Falls, the Palouse River, and the stupendous canyons beyond. Here in this remote spot is something that rivals the Grand Canyon in magnificence. We also saw some B-52 fighter jets training overhead--also quite a thrill.
Back on the Sea Lion, we enjoyed a fun BBQ lunch and then napped in our cabin for a while. Took in another lecture by Tom and then just relaxed on deck, enjoying the fresh air, some more locking, and a beautiful sunset on the Snake River.
After an especially yummy dinner (squash soup, scallops, and cheescake), we finished off the day by watching a movie about the "Paradise Road," the Columbia Gorge highway that was built as a work of art back in 1914-16. More on this in the next trip post!
Day 8: The Columbia River Gorge, Horsetail Falls, and Multnomah Falls
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Liz and Mary at the Columbia River Gorge |
Today was our big day in the Columbia River Gorge!
We docked at The Dalles (rhymes with "pals"), a small river port, and began the day with a visit to the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center. This is an excellent museum devoted to the history and natural history of the area. We were lucky enough to be visiting during a wonderful special exhibit called "Cargo," which graphically displayed and explained all the types of things carried west by the Corps of Discovery: uniforms, weapons, medicine, Indian presents, portable soup, and much more. This exhibit goes on until September 2006 and is well worth a visit if you get the chance! Unfortunately, our visit here was all too brief, and we had to leave before getting a chance to explore the other exhibits.
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The overlook at Rowena Crest gave us a magnificent view of the craggy scenery of the Gorge. But the big event of the day was a very fun hike along a restored portion of the old Columbia Gorge Highway. We had sunny, crisp weather in which to take in some of the best scenery on the planet. We hiked up to and through a beautiful tunnel that showcased the attention to detail that was lavished on this famous parkway by its builders, Sam Hill and Samuel Lancaster. Hill and Lancaster were visionaries who wanted the Columbia Gorge Highway to provide not only a means of transportation, but a poetical uplift to the soul. The construction of the highway in the nineteen-teens could be considered either a milestone in public works design, or a wasteful boondoggle, or both, depending on your point of view.
The sad thing was that the highway was obsolete almost as soon as it was finished. Hill and Lancaster never anticipated the amount of traffic that the road would bear, nor did it occur to them that automobiles would evolve beyond the Model T. After only about ten years, the road began to fall into disuse and was eventually abandoned. Fortunately, sections of this awesome trail have been restored and are now open for hiking and biking and taking in the stupendous views, just as Hill and Lancaster intended.
After our hike, we got to spend a little time in Hood River, a really neat town with some great shopping and lots of dogs! Wish we could have hung out here a while, but all too soon it was time to return to the Sea Lion. I'd like to come back to this area on a future trip and spend several days exploring much more of what it has to offer.
What happened after lunch was actually one of the highlights of the entire trip. We went to the bow of the ship as we journeyed through the Gorge. Most of the time we quietly shared the space with only one or two other passengers. We watched wind and kite surfers plying their feats of incredible daring under beautiful cliffs, tall trees, and birds soaring over the blue river. I felt grateful to Lewis and Clark for bringing us to this amazing place.
Later in the day we tied up at the old Cascade Lock and took a bus into the Gorge to see Horsetail Falls and Multnomah Falls. Horsetail is a beautiful cascade of over 100 feet, but Multnomah is a two-tiered waterfall of 620 feet. A famous bridge, built by Hill and Lancaster, creates a cathedral effect. In addition to its wonder, Multnomah Falls is another amazing example of the powerful Missoula floods that made this area.
The final special event today was watching the sunset over Beacon Rock as the Sea Lion sailed through the Gorge. We felt just like Lewis and Clark. A great day.
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Sunset on the Columbia. Beacon Rock is on the right. |
Day 9: Fort Clatsop; Ocean in View!
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Fort Clatsop |
Our last day on the Columbia River. This morning we docked in Astoria, a neat old river port that was founded by John Jacob Astor for fur trading way back in 1811, just a few years after Lewis and Clark were here. The houses (mostly 1920s vintage) rise over the river on steep hills. Once Astoria was a center of salmon canning. Looking around town, it seems fair to say that Astoria's glory days are in the past.
We started off the day with a visit to the Columbia River Maritime Museum. This is a really fascinating place with first-class exhibits and a compelling orientation movie. I hadn't realized that the Columbia River and its "bar," where the river joins the ocean, is known as the Graveyard of the Pacific. There have been hundreds of shipwrecks here, not only in olden times but up to the present day. We learned about ships, lighthouses, how people navigated the river both before and after the construction of the dams, and the role of the Coast Guard in amazing rescues. The Coast Guard maintains a training facility near here because the conditions are so treacherous that they have plenty of opportunity to practice all the skills needed for rescue. I was impressed to learn about the river and bar pilots who specialize in bringing ships in to the Columbia. One of the most fun aspects of this trip has been learning about the Columbia and its history quite apart from Lewis and Clark's journey.
Next we eagerly boarded the bus for what for us would be a highlight of the trip, our visit to Fort Clatsop, where the Corps of Discovery spent the long rainy winter of 1805-06. Fort Clatsop lies in the heart of a coastal rain forest with tall mossy trees and cool misty floors. We had the incredible luck of visiting on a spectacular sunny day, a rare event in this part of Oregon. Poor Lewis and Clark had only twelve days the entire winter in which it didn't rain.
The place was packed with visitors, but we had a good chance to see and hang out at the recreated fort. The most striking feature of the fort for me was how tiny it was--about the size of two portable school classrooms with a small run between. It was amazing to think about how L&C, the men, and the Charbonneau family spent months living on top of each other in this place. We saw the enlisted men's barracks, the captains' room, the Charbonneaus' room, and the recreated smokehouse. We enjoyed visiting with a reenactor making tallow candles. Outside the walls of the fort, we enjoyed a stroll through the beautiful forest down to the spring that the Corps used.
Note: Fort Clatsop burned down just two weeks after our visit. I feel fortunate that we got to see this recreation, built with loving care by the Jaycees back in 1955 for the sesquicentennial. As of this writing, the rebuilding is well underway. In the meantime, the Bicentennial signature events went on as scheduled.
In the afternoon, we visited the lightship Columbia, moored near the museum, and the Astoria Column, a striking tower built on the highest point in the city in the 1920s. The tower is painted with friezes depicting the city's history, and you can climb approximately one million steps to the top to see a stupendous view of the Columbia River bar and surrounding area. Some of our compadres flew tiny balsa wood airplanes from the observation deck into the swirling breezes.
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Mary and Liz at the top of |
The final event of this trip was an exciting venture into the Columbia River bar itself. Out on the deck of the Sea Lion, we watched as the wind grew ever more blustery and cold and the water more choppy. Some of the most moving words of the journals were penned by Clark as the Corps entered this area, known as Gray's Bay.
"Ocian in view!" Clark wrote. "O! The joy... Great joy in camp, we are in view of the Ocian, this great Pacific Ocean which we [have] been so long anxious to see."
In reality the Corps was still about 20 miles from the ocean. Seeing the area in person, I can understand Clark's mistake. The bay is enormous, with swelling whitecaps and tides. (In fact, Clark noted tidewater on this river as far east as Beacon Rock.) Seabirds, including my favorite of all birds, the pelican, flew and dived in the water. It sure looks like the ocean.
Being devout cowards, we almost died of fright when a big wave made a bang against the ship, especially after everything we had learned about the Columbia's fickle ways. When the ship turned broadside to the waves in its turn back for safer waters, I wondered if we were goners. But of course all was well and doubtless not nearly as adventuresome as it seemed to these farmers.
As usual with a vacation, we felt glad to be getting on home but bittersweet that we had to leave a beautiful land that we barely got to know. Looking back over another great trip, my primary feelings are love for this amazing country of ours and admiration for Lewis and Clark and all that they endured and accomplished.